Bozeman, MT - sucked in

A friend of mine who was originally from Bozeman had warned me several times on this trip: "Be careful when you get to Bozeman. You might just end up staying there." Naturally, I laughed at the cute-sy joke. Hmmm, perhaps I should learn my lesson and heed all advice by good friends. I stayed yet another day here. Dun dun DUNNNN!

After a late night of barn parties, midnight walks, and existential conversation I had falled asleep last night (this morning?) knowing that I would head out in the morning. It was a nice effort on my part. However, when I woke up, new buddy Dennis decided it would be a great idea to get some tea and hike up to the big "M" on the side of one of the mountains. The view was spectacular - the entire city layed out amidst the haze of the surrounding rock goliaths. And when I returned with him to Milton's place - Milt and I decided that the best possible solution to a gorgeous afternoon would be to play hairdresser (I'll let you all guess the status of my locks...) and then go float for several hours down the ridiculously scenic Madison River with "the crew." Popped tube, shivers, and several dirty jokes and beers later we all decided that a run to Norris Hot Springs was in order. Don't get me wrong: the float was awesome and only began to go really downhill for the last half hour of desperate tube fixing;) But the hot springs were a great way to relax from that obviously stressful afternoon of floating mindlessly through the mountain beauty;) Nighttime already!? I guess just one more night in Bozeman won't hurt...

... heed the words of caution! Tomorrow I'll see if I can keep these gypsy feet a-movin'.

Bozeman, MT - extended

Changes, changes... that's all we have in the world, so it is good to become comfortable with them. Adam and I spent the day exploring downtown Bozeman - saw some fantastic art in Altitude Gallery (www.altitudegallerybozeman.com). Possibly some of the most original, contemporary art I have seen yet on this trip. (Especially Dennis Kirkland's photography!) Sometimes just walking through the streets of a city popping into stores here and there, talking with random folks, etc is the best way to pick up the vibe and get a feel for what kind of lifestyle it holds. Bozeman seems to be full of open people, many of which are transients like me, who have a zeal for life and a knack for adventure. Later in the afternoon, we headed on over to find the Hyalite Resevoir... gorgeous lake set in those fabulous mountains. There were people swimming and fishing so we thought we would just take a quick dip and perhaps go for a hike or read. The people up here must be 3/4 polar bear. Zooot! Man, was that water COLD! No such "dipping" was happening for this sunshine lover. Instead we checked out the surrounding area, read in the evening sun, and made yet another big change to the agenda of this trip. Alas, short lived as it was, the days of a traveling duo are coming to a close. Adam has decided that perhaps he better head back down to Sioux Falls and go back to school this semester. So, we'll just hang here for one more day and he will be catching the Greyhound back around nightfall. C'est la vie, eh?

Emigrant, MT to Bozeman, MT

I love being woken up to the light of sunrise bouncing off mountains:) The wild beauty out here just kind of sucks away your soul, bounces it around on its knee, and then hands it back with a laugh. You cannot help but be filled up with wonder and an enormous grin. Addicting.

Llele got some action today! It was a hot morning and we said goodbye to Sue after she helped us drop off the car at the Pine Creek Trailhead (our morning bike's destination). The ride really wasn't long but almost entire last mile or two (of a gorgeous ten) were a strenuous climb. Something about climbing in such distinct elevation changes makes it pretty rough. Sweaty and proud, we recieved a breathtaking view of the valley though; that alone makes it all worthwhile. From there we took a nice mile hike up to the Pine Creek Falls. Since it's bear season, it is really important to make noise while you are hiking - and this is where I can honestly tell Papa: every item you gave me for this trip is for safety, thank you. We played harmonica for almost the entire hike up to the falls - making music and warding of those great big, fuzzy, intruiging teddy, err, grizzly bears. The view from the top of the falls outshone even the treat at the top of our bike ride. Powerful mountains tilt your neck upwards, sky bigger than anywhere else pulls at your peripheral vision, and the gush of ice cold mountain water churning downward tugs your heartstrings. I think I might be falling in love with this wild landscape;)

Love affair continuing, we arrived in Bozeman just in time to catch some of Sue's artwork at her gallery there. She creates beatiful pottery. For the rest of the evening we wandered through town, grabbed food at the enormously fantastic Co-op, and settled down to read. At the recommendation of a previous Bozeman local, we met up with Milton (Milton Menasco - check out his music!) and his partner, Amanda. These two individuals offered us truly stimulating conversation and music for the rest of the evening. They have continued the tradition of this trip: open doors, warm hugs, and generosity to rival the skies of the Big Sky State.

Gardiner, MT to Emigrant, MT

Though we didn't technically travel very far today, we got to see so much more of the park and surrounding area. We had driven back in to the Mammoth Hot Springs area, and went for the walk all through the terraced springs. It's strange how they look cold because it is all white and ice-like but really its steaming hot. We felt like physical warriors because just before heading up on the boardwalk leading through the springs we had heard a woman exclaim, "You can't drive through it! No. There is no way I am walking all through there. It takes TWO HOURS to walk it!? I think NOT!" Way to go us. Haha. I had to laugh. And we did see her later, in her car, at the top of the lookout checking out the springs from above, so I guess we all win.

A bike ride was in store today - finally! - and I was more than pumped to get back on Llele for a little bit. Alas, silly us, the trail marked for biking in the park was a Mountain Bike trail. Booo. So after a much shorter bike than my legs were hoping for, we went for a hike instead. And then, on the advice of a good friend, we searched out a reward we didn't think existed in the park: swimming in hot springs. If you hike to where the Gardiner River and the Boiling River meet, there is a spot for soaking in the jets of cold and hot water. It was exquisite. And just enough off the main road that not too many people go there. We were greeted by a 5+ foot long snake. I think it scared Adam more than me;) A little jolt of adrenaline was eased away with a solid amount of time in the hot water, though.

As if we didn't have enough soak time, we met up with my aunt's buddy from Peace Corps, Craig and partner Sue in the evening for another soak - this time in the Chico Hot Springs. Totally different look at hot springs. Chico is a walled in pool that literally fills to the brim every day with hot water from the springs and then is emptied each night. Luxury. Luxury completed with lovely company, a mouth-watering meal, fun pictures/stories from Craig's Peace Corps experience, and the kicker: a real bed to sleep in:)

Buffalo, WY to (Yellowstone) Gardiner, MT

Woke up to the sun, grabbed us some coffee, and we headed out. Wyoming is yet another wide open, luxuriously beautiful state. More rock, less grass, becoming more untamed feeling than any place yet (besides, perhaps the Badlands). It's the kind of wild openness that gives me the butterflies stomach ache. I love it. We pulled in to Yellowstone National Park in the early day and headed right for Old Faithful. As Adam tried to convince one of his friends that "yes, I really did just head out to the west coast with some girl..." we prepared for the geyser. It shot upward with a spray and was greeted with the crowds murmurs of approval:) We drove all through the park and finally decided we should stop taking multiple mini hikes all over and actually go find a place to camp. Well, common sense isn't always my forte. Neither is thinking ahead. Alas, everywhere in the park was FULL. So we made a few more pit stops - checking out bubbling, sulphur springs and a petrified redwood tree. And then drove right on out of the park into Gardiner, MT. After a quick meal and some local beer (Moose Drool Porter... not as bad as it might sound) we parked with a great view of the park mountains and slept off the long drive.

Rapid City, SD to Buffalo, WY

Driving vs. Biking
We cover so much ground by driving that its unbelievable how much other time you have to check out new places. However, I do miss seeing the ridiculous amount of banana peels on the side of the road (I wish I kept a tally when I was biking - there are more than enough for some slap-stick humor).

We took today to check out several sights. The first big one was Crazy Horse Monument. It was a much more interesting stop than I had anticipated. The project is family run and they have refused any government funding for it. I applaud that because the integrity in the process of building such an immense monument is awesome. From their we headed onto 16 and rounded our way through the Black Hills. Easily the most beautiful road I have ever been on, thus far in my life. It just snakes around, forcing me to emit little squeaks of elation at each new sight. Poor Adam will be sick of hearing "I am so excited! This is amazing!" by the end of the trip, I have no doubt. We were stopped by a herd of buffalo along the road at one point. Really huge. Really wild looking. And Really not fans of motorcycles. They were charging a few of the guys riding them... eeks! Eventually however, we got a move on and rode through tunnels that place you right in view of Mt. Rushmore. WAY better way to see that monument than paying to ride up to the base of it. But the day doesn't end there!

We made our third big touristy stop of the day by going to the Reptile Gardens. It was absolutely worth it. We danced with a parrot, learned about snakes, and cuddled giant, OLD, hissing tortoises. By evening, we got to see a different kind of attraction: Deadwood. Home of casinos encased in Wild West decor. Such a crazy place, it overstimulates and yet has a little bit of wild charm. After much needed nourishment, we raced to get to Devil's Tower by sunset. And although the sunset was a splendid streak of vivid color along the foothills and grasslands, it was already dusk by the time we hit our destination. Undaunted, we hiked our way up to the alien, mammoth, rock formation. Armed with a light and my big knife we crawled up along the rocks to the base and took one picture (that didn't turn out in the dark, and then the battery ran out) and noticed the signs all around us: Hiking above the trailhead without preregistering is a FEDERAL OFFENSE. Oh snap. Perhaaaaaaps we should head back down....

My record remains clean. Phew. Putting in a few more hours, we finally succumbed to sleep in a hotel parking lot in Buffalo, WY, amidst the glow of street lights and orange construction cones.

Sioux Falls, SD to Rapid City, SD

It has indeed been dynamic, the course this journey has taken so far. After wandering my way downtown to see some of the Centinal(?) Bicycle Race - crazy how fast those spandex clad biker men go - I called up Adam. He was still game for an adventure to the coast. One thing left to do: meet the big M-O-M.

Penny and Mike are great parents, thoroughly concerned with their son's impromtu decision to join a strange girl on her quest in search of America but also loving enough to understand that it was indeed a fantastic opportunity for both me and Adam. After the whole family issued out fresh fruit, laughs, and hugs Adam and I grabbed his bike, loaded up the SUV and barreled onward through South Dakota. We took the route down 44 and I have to say, the beauty of this area is so poetic. The grasshills and lakes and rock outcroppings all merging into one another are the stuff to inspire art.

We stopped at the Badlands. Unreal. Strange. Beautiful. It's hard to really get the words but just an intensely unusual land to walk through. Rough and beautiful and alien. Next, on the other end of the strange spectrum, was Wall Drug. We weren't going to stop there but a friend of mine convinced me that if I did not at least try to "bond" with a cowboy hat there, I would regret it. I will live my life without regrets. And with my new cowboy hat;)

Finally, Rapid City! We pulled in late that night, winding our way higher and higher over the city to family friends Jim and Jane. Their home rises above the rest of the area and was firmly held in the grips of a windstorm when we arrived. Even at night, the views are breathtaking. And they are a welcome stay: sweet hosts with an avalanche of information about the history and geography of the surrounding area.

Sioux Falls, SD - yet another change!

I spent the entirety of Saturday wandering throughout the gorgeous city of Sioux Falls. Found the falls themselves - unbelievably intriguing. The stone is bright orange, and smoothed over time, the water running full power throughout. I could have stayed all day there (and almost did) but the other side of town beckoned. Wandering all the way to Terrace Garden I found the Japanese Gardens and also realized that yet another camera of mine is failing. Perhaps the world is trying to teach me something about just enjoying the moment? Fair Enough. My memory snatched up as much of the beauty in Sioux Falls as humanly possible.

Evening: great food and art at Michelle's (teeny cafe with live music outside on the street, right downtown) and onward toward Nutty's North, to see the promised Ringo Starchild perform. The club had a pretty chill atmosphere and I hung out, watching the opener bands. Before long, Adam came into the picture. He was a really sweet guy, keeping me company with good conversation during the performances. His buddies/housemates play for The Sewer Rats and they seemed like a really interesting group of guys. After watching the "famed" Ringo Starchild, I ended up heading back over to Adam's place with some of his friends (you rock: Tom, Wyatt, Dan, Mike-Fancy). And from there the plan was hatched... albeit slightly inebriated, Adam thought it would be a fantastic time to join me on my adventure. We'll see what the morning decides....

Fairmont, MN to Sioux Falls, SD

State Numero Cinco!

Although things have taken a new spin, this trip is still going great and I continue to meet/see/do amazing people/sights/adventures. After a warm goodbye to my new adopted family in Fairmont, I loaded everything up in the HUGE suburban and drove away - driving feels so much faster when you have been biking everywhere. Zipping away (and getting in some serious Harry-Potter-books-on-tape time) I landed in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. It is one of the most unexpectedly cool cities I have ever been to. I started my visit out with a yoga class at the Darma Room on Phillips Ave. And then wandered my way around visiting all the sculptures and PIANOS(!) in the area. They have these gorgeous, funkily painted pianos all over the city with signs on them that say "play me." So, play I did.

Music fix aside, I went to meet up with my single contact in South Dakota - FUMI! Fumi owns Sushi Masa Japanese Restaurant in Sioux Falls and he fed me so much amazing food and sake:) I ate until I could eat no more and then, he sent me to his friend's bar - Stogeez - down the street where I drank until I could drink no more. After some good conversation, he drove me back to his home (sidenote on the family: sweetest wife ever, and the most adorable children) where I crashed for a solid night of sleep. Now, I have been convinced to stay in Sioux Falls another night to go see the band Ringo Starchild play. (One of the members, Chris, works at Sushi Masa and tempted me to stay another day with the promise of musica!)

Fairmont, MN - new direction

Leaving yourself open, with no expectations, is surely the best way to allow the world to fall into place. It's like losing your wallet: you will not be able to find it until you stop searching. As soon as I surrender myself to the flow of life, life places incredible opportunities in front of me. This trip has been one large continuation of that and last night was no different.

After mulling over possible places to camp for the night in Fairmont I decided that, even though there would be a thunderstorm a-brewing, I was just going to not worry about it. Half a mushroom pizza and a stroll downtown later, I met Stacy. She had a rolled up yoga mat under one arm and was clad in spandex. BINGO! I introduced/followed her to the studio where I immediately went into my schpeal when I met the instructor: "Hi, my name is Maggie and I am biking to the West Coast. I would like to take your class and then ... I know this might sound strange but... do you think I could sleep in the studio this evening?" No, I may not sleep in the studio - I may take a fabulous TWO yoga classes (ahhh, I forgot the beauty of yoga) and then not only stay in her home but meet her fantastic relatives.

Diane and Bob graciously gave me a space to drop my gear and then we walked over to meet Karen, Andy, Kristy, and Joe. And their three huge, slobbering, puppy-eyed, mellow New Foundlands:) After a glass of wine and some great conversation about all of our various travels and adventures (and mutual friends from the East Coast!) an opportunity presented itself that mutually benefitted Karen/Andy and I. They need someone to drive their Suburban to San Francisco and I am worried I won't make it over the mountains in time to beat cold weather. TA-DA! Everyone is a winner!

Disclaimer: the biking from now until San Francisco will be sans the gear (weeee!) and only day trips when I get to certain destinations sporting fun bike trails. The rest will be via car (sorry - you can only keep the rubber down so much! Peter, forgive me!) I will still be blogging as I go though, and once I get to San Francisco, much more biking!

New Richland, MN to Fairmont, MN - 25mi

Oh fickle, fickle Minnesota weather. This morning I was well-rested after my unexpected motel stay and a lovely breakfast with Pastor Andee at the local breakfast place Blondee's. That, plus a solid tailwind, sent me sailing out on the (PINK!) roads of New Richland towards the west. I planned to stop for a little bit in Mapleton - didn't realize exactly what that meant! By 10:30am (woohoo! I was flyyyyyyying!) I pulled into the tiny town - in the rain. Perfect timing, just a little bit soaked. So I hunkered down in the public library to read and check the weather. Finally, I decided it would be beneficial to dry the clothes I was wearing. A venture across the street turned up a laundromat and a place for me to readjust my plans. By 1:00pm I was not only dry but antsy to continue my ride! Geared up properly for the now abiding (haha, oh Minnesota, you tease, you) rain I plunged onward towards the next town. And about a quarter of a mile down the way my chain slipped and the rain just delivered all it had... buckets upon buckets of cold rain. But wouldn't you know it, the world just always seems to work out:

Enter Daisy. I lugged my bike up the street to a home that looked like it had someone in it. She popped out and said I was welcome to fix my chain in her garage but she was headed in to the fair at Fairmont. (That was today's casual destination.) She gave me a ride all the way, wet gear and all, in to Fairmont. Now I am in yet another public library after sorting my stuff into some semblance of order. Not quite sure what the afternoon/evening has in store for me but I think this will be as far as I go today... in two days I could even hit state number FIVE!

Rochester, MN to New Richland, MN - 53mi

In with a kiss, out with a kick in the behind! Minnesota didn't treat me quite as well today - biking wise, that is. Introductions were in store this morning: "Headwinds, meet Maggie. Maggie, meet headwinds." We are not going to be friends, I can already tell. Sanity stops are much closer in miles when you feel like an invisible hand is in your face the entire time you are biking. I made several - for food, for reading in the sunshine, for more bum-cream. By the time I was about 30 miles in I resorted to a newly learned trick. Double the bike shorts, Double the fun! Two layers of bike shorts is lovely... no more chaffing. And extra padding which came just in time for Highway 30 between Ellensdale and New Richland. Pretty much every five feet there is a HUGE crack in the pavement. Not ideal. Two other firsts for this trip happened today as well: I was chased by a dog... while going uphill at about 5mph. I ended up going about 15;) Also, someone honked and swore at me because apparently I was not going fast enough up the hill and wasn't knee deep in weeds on the side of the road so that they could have more than enough space. I'm not bitter about it. I promise.

Change in attitude.
I was losing it a little bit when an Adopt a Highway sign read "Namaste Chi Therapy." Ahhh, a reminder to breathe. Immediately cleared my head. And things looked up from there. I rolled into New Richland to see if the library had internet... of course it's not open, but how about the local farmer's market instead?? I loaded up on some veggies and baked goods for the night and started to think about where to camp when I met Pastor Paul Andee. Yet another saint in disguise. First, he got the night cop on duty to let me camp in the park in town. Then took me out to dinner with his angel of a wife. THEN proceeded to drive me to a motel in the next little town so that I would have a safe, comfortable evening. Unbelievable. I don't think I will EVER doubt the beauty of people again. If given the right opportunity, I think humans want to be good to each other. Thanks for re-affirming that Pastor Andee. Tomorrow I will be refreshed and perhaps the headwinds and I can work something out...

Holmen, WI to Rochester, MN - 65mi

Minnesota brought me in with a kiss on the forehead, apologizing for the less than perfect day spent in the Wisconsin rain. I began the day in La Crosse, WI literally on the big blue bridge crossing the Mississippi River. With just a few big hills I cruised twenty miles over to the Root River Trail. That trail alone might have just given Madison a run for it's money. Easily, the most gorgeous biking I have had so far. The trail is smoooooooooth asphalt, winding along the Root River, cushioning you between goldenrods, daisies, sunflowers, and black eyed susans - follow the yellow brick, err, flower road! I made a stop for some pie, on suggestion from Amy, at the "World Famous Pies" shop and then carried on into Lanesboro. Lanesboro has a pretty good rep, or so I hear;) Voted top 20 cities to live - perhaps in the future I'll come back and give it a thorough look-see. At the end of the trail (sadface, I wanted to ride it all the way to the coast!) in Fountain, a good friend of the family met me to drive me the rest of the way to their home outside Rochester. There, I not only recieved another fantastic hot shower, great dinner, and comfy bed but some great catch up with old friends:) Thank you SO MUCH Dan and Stacy! (And Matt, Nick, and Nolan!)

If you're keeping up on state roadkill counts: Land of 10,000 Lakes = Land of 10,000 unfortunate turtles:(

North Freedom, WI to Holmen, WI - 80mi

80 miles and a little, much needed, generously given car ride;) After delish french toast thanks to Tone, I headed out... into the rain... so much rain... oh my goodness rain. I biked for a good chunk of time being poured on. And then it finally let up as I entered the "400" bike trail in Reedsburg. To have clear weather got me pumped, so I started biking much harder than is advisable on slick trails. And my poor left side got torn up. Again. To add to the frustration, the second I began to collect myself, my gear, and my bike it began to rain - torrential rain. On the up side, it cleaned the blood off my leg almost as fast as it was coming out. On the downside it reallllly peeved me. Regardless, I kept going. It finally let up as I hit the Elroy-Sparta trailhead. From there I had a fairly uneventful ride in terms of disasters. But I was more skittish than I would like to admit, so it was a pretty slow ride too. Cool thing about that trail: TUNNELS! There are three tunnels you have to walk through, the last one being about a mile long. It's a little bit creepy to go into them and not see the end. After FINALLY hitting the La Crosse River Trail in the later evening I was hungry and definitely hitting the wall. Hard. Luckily, my host for the evening is an angel in disguise. Amy offered to drive to the next town on my trail and pick me up so I could make it to her home before dark. Just in time. And then she proceeded to feed me a yummy meal, clean my clothing, and fill me in on all the amazing, extreme, interesting things she does with her life. Now I fear I am keeping her awake, as well as myself... I get to see the Mississippi River tomorrow!

Madison, WI to North Freedom, WI - 50mi

A much shorter day than I had originally planned but nonetheless eventful! Rebecca made lovely breakfast and then I was rolled out of town with a posse of four fantastic females: Marti, Ann-o, Mary-Bennet, and Kaylene (forgive me for any misspellings, ladies!). They are an awesome troupe - super supportive, really sweet, tough women. It's admittedly a little sad to say goodbye to Madison and its great vibe. But my focus was quickly rerouted as I kicked my law-abiding self aside to climb under the orange "Road Closed, DO NOT ENTER" fence keeping me from the road towards the Merrimac Ferry. Alas, the maneuver did me little good as Wisconsin likes to do construction on as many roads as possible during the prime biking months.... luckily frustration turned friendship in the form of Johnathon and his little car:) Headed in the same direction, we smushed all my gear into the trunk and backseat and I made it just in time to see the Ferry pull up.

It was a social day: on the other side of the lake, in the itty bitty town of Merrimac, five women wanted to hear about my journey... and then wanted to know what I had for protection... and then decided that they would "sleep SO MUCH BETTER at night" if I would take their pepper spray with me. I insisted that it was not necessary, I could buy my own. No avail. So, Papa (and all other concerned family/friends): I HAVE PEPPER SPRAY AND A BIG KNIFE! BE WARNED ALL YE SCARY PEOPLE!

Biking with random people is great as a change from headphones. I fell in with a few different groups on the way towards Devil's Lake State Park. Received some good advice about previously mentioned spray: It takes a VERY long time for dog's to clear it from their eyes, so use it as a last resort on them. The state park is gorgeous. Wisconsin is gorgeous. It was a great afternoon ride. When I pulled in to North Freedom I thought I was just going to grab a quick bite to eat and continue on but fate stepped in in a barrage of coincidences. I met Kim and Will, who grew up in the same towns as my parents; their house-mate Tone who has family in the town near me. So we got to chatting and they offered me a shower, a bed, and live music at the local fundraiser event downtown. Sold;) Thank you Kim, Will, Tone, and Hannah - it was a fabulous stay!

Madison, WI - exploration

After the initial "extra day" I took in Madison, I woke up on Friday and decided... maybe just one more;) It's a really great city with a fantastic, inviting vibe. So I whipped out the Ukulele and noodled around in the morning sunshine on the rooftop of Retreat Doris (Rebecca and Marti's home). Later on provided a luxurious exploration of State Street (State Street Gallery - a must see! and check out www.nomadicproject.com - so cool!) and a little check in at Machinery Row bike shop to make sure everything on Llele was still tip top. Still later I had time to sit down with a good book over by the Tenney Locks for a while. Pretty great day in a pretty great place.

I want to say to everyone who has commented, emailed, texted, called, etc: thank you so much for your sweet words of encouragement! I love to hear from you all and it means a lot that you are enjoying hearing about this journey as much as I do because it really is about connecting with people - not just the new faces but the old as well! I do not need a thing from anyone other than that fun contact... if for some reason you want to get in touch you can always email me: maggieracich@gmail.com or send snail mail to my parents (email me for the addy). But in terms of what you should do to "help me out" - simply do what everyone has done for me and offer a couch, a shower, a word of encouragement to anyone you should come across out on a journey. Which really boils down to being considerate to everyone because, we are all on a journey...

Orangeville, IL to Madison, WI - 63mi

It was a cool morning heading towards the Illinois/Wisconsin border. I got a good laugh when I went to take a picture of the "Welcome to Wisconsin" sign on the Badger State Trail and looked up to see a whole field of mooing cows. Welcome to Wisconsin, indeed!

I know Wisconsin is supposed to be known for its cows and cheese but after the first few hours of my morning, I've decided it should really be known for rabbits. There were at least 13 or 14 rabbits along the bike path. Not to mention the three woodchucks, and tons of yellow party birds. In Monroe, WI I stopped over at the Monroe Hospital Pharmacy to fill up my water bottle and say hey to Carrie (from the previous town). Her co-workers were great - very interested to hear about my trip and to give me fresh produce (greatest gift ever: HUGE CUCUMBER!). The rest of the day was comfortable riding on the limestone trail... until I hit a patch of loose gravel thrown in to cover a wash-out. First epic fall of the trip. I must have been going around 12mph or so, which doesn't seem like a ton until you see the ground coming up at you. Nice little war wound on my left leg now though. My poor left pannier is just getting beat up. Good thing its durable. From there though, it just sort of wound down to a frustrating afternoon: the trail ended sort of abruptly, my rear tire starting showing signs of a flat, my chain popped off as I was shifting downhill, and to top it off when I was close to meeting up with my arrival party Marti, the road was closed for construction. We decided to be adventurous though and just walk our bikes through the construction and see if we could meet up in the middle. That's where the afternoon began to look up...

The bike into Madison was gorgeous on the Capitol City Bike Trail and it was great to get to ride WITH someone for a change. We stopped at the Next Generation Consulting workspace (super cool) and then rode onward to their home. Let me just take a moment to say it is the coolest home I think I may have ever seen. Very modern. I feel like I am staying in a little retreat:) To sum up the evening: went out for beer and live jazz (SO GOOOOOD) on State Street with Marti and Ann-o, and then caught the Breeders playing at the Majestic. Welcome to Wisconsin. I think I'll stay an extra day;)

Oregon, IL to Orangeville, IL - 50mi

I've noticed a difference between the types of roadkill in Michigan and Illinois (you notice these sorts of things when you can't just whiz past the stench of a dead animal...). Michigan had lots of larger animals: porcupine, possum, squirrel, raccoon. Thankfully, Illinois boasts toads, frogs, and birds. I had a handful of people stop in their cars today to ask where I was headed and if I needed anything (a gatorade, money, a ride). Which is super nice, except when you are halfway up a hill in the midday sun... don't pull over to chat with a biker until they are at the top....

In Freeport, 10 miles out from my final destination, I spotted a Happy Joe's restaurant. My parents MET working at a Happy Joe's together so I figured that was a good sign. When I walked up to the counter and asked if they had any special deals or leftover pizza from missed orders, the manager gave me free access to the buffet. Sweeeeeet! Several fantastic slices of pizza later, I filled my water bottles, thanked them and sailed effortlessly down into the town of Orangeville, population 800. It was only about 4:30 in the afternoon but I decided to go in to grab something to drink at the only place open in town: the bar. Free beer from the locals though:) After some conversation at the bar with Dale, I had a place to stay for the night, dinner, and a clean shower to use. Here's the Orangetown shout-out: Thank you Dale for the company and place to sleep. And also to Rodney, Carrie, Destiny, and T-Bone (who doesn't love a 180lb rotweiler eh?) for dinner!

Quote of the trip, so far: "It's her world, we're just all living in it..." - Dale

Shorewood, IL to Oregon, IL - 90mi

Sunday night was catch up night with Nonnie and Papa - who decided that, since they couldn't keep me from this crazy adventure, the next best thing was to give me four very important items for travel: a harmonica in the key of G, a harmonica in the key of E, a mini thermometer/compass, and a large knife. Fair enough - music and safety:)

Monday morning threatened thunderstorms but since the skies were clear, I judged I could out-bike any foul weather thrown my way! Luckily, I judged correctly. It was interesting to note, as soon as I got out into the fields upon fields of corn, all of it has signs and markers with the seed suppliers' names. Interesting. Didn't see any "organic" cornfields. The day was a pretty hot one but I felt good biking after the weekend of laziness... until about 65 miles into the bike that is. At that point I definitely had a food mood breakdown - barely able to pedal over 7mph. Quick, energy bar! That was enough to help me push through to the last of the 90 miles I put in. I pulled into the Lutheran Outdoor Ministries Center in Oregon, IL at around 8:30pm as it was getting dark. (It was where my dad used to camp when he was little!) The counselors at the camp were fantastic though and hooked me up with trail mix, cold water, camp space, and A SHOWER! 90 miles was do-able but I could barely get my self clean and my tent up before I passed out.

Michigan City, IN and Joliet, IL - By Car

I have been spending time with family and friends. I rode with my parents (crammed into the back of a VW Bug with my bike, gear, and golf clubs - funny sight for sure!) after a day at Silver Lake with my cousins, down to Michigan City, IN. Good friends awaited us with not only hugs and smiles but also fantastic biking advice. Anne and Cary convinced me to turn to the efficient world that is BIKE SHOES. And the comfort world that is ASS CREME. And the safety world that is EXCHANGABLE LENS SUNGLASSES. Important things... that were made possible by the generousity (and lovingly supressed worry) of my Grandma. *THANK YOU* We drove down to Shorewood, IL on Saturday to spend some time seeing family. And learning to clip in, clip out, clip in, clip out, clip in, clip out of my bike pedals. Quality mapping time, blogging time, eating and drinking, sleeping, re-packing... Monday begins the real deal. For Real.

Manistee, MI to Rothbury, MI - 62mi

I awoke to the sound of two dogs that's combined weights were less than my left pannier. 6:30am. Good enough of an alarm as any so I packed up my bike and just as I was about to head out, the woman whose yard I was invading came out to greet me. Not only greet me but invite me in, get me breakfast, find the best directions to Ludington, and give me her cell number in case I get lost.

*SHOUT OUT TO JULIE FROM MANISTEE*

Julie is the sweetest woman you can imagine, with a house full of great kids and a heart of even more love.

After that kind of send off, my ride was perfect. Until I hit US 10. The "sidewalk" next to it is fine but each driveway is bookmarked by a tall curb. After about a half hour of this I had already popped my left pannier off three times. Time for a change. So I got directions from the next autoshop. On towards Hart, MI - start of the Hart-Montague Bike Trail! Woops. There went Hart. Time for ONSTAR DADDY! Nothing makes you feel a little more like a ten year old running away from home than calling your dad on day three of a cross country bike trip to say "where am I?" Luckily, Shelby was the next connection to the trail and literally minutes from me:) So I sailed into the teeny town and grabbed pizza before dropping in on my cousins for the evening. Where I was convinced to turn my evening into a luxurious stay at Camp Winterstein;) Icecream, popcorn, Top Chef, and Jeopardy with family, after a hot shower. Not too shabby;)

Traverse City, MI to Manistee, MI - 78mi

After a later start than planned, I left Traverse City on day two and headed over towards the coast of Lake Michigan. I hit my first bigger hill and was given a look at how much my leg muscles have to look forward to;) The weather was gorgeous and the day was fairly uneventful until I found myself on US 31 near Beulah, MI... going 4mph uphill on US 31 with NO shoulder. Yikes. I pulled over in Beulah and asked for the easiest way to AVOID US 31. The man in the Bait and Tackle Fishing Store pointed me to the Betsie Valley Trail. A beautiful stretch of bike path curving around Crystal Lake and next to the Betsie River. After finally making it out to M-22 and towards Arcadia I fought my way up the huge hill taking me into the rewarding scenic turn-off:) Breathtaking views of Lake Michigan. (or breath-giving, after a crazy haul uphill!) Soared 35mph down into Arcadia and pushed onward to Manistee. 10 miles from Manistee the world just began to slope up. and up. and up. Gradual but not nice when you are starving... I succumbed to the pull of the energy gel packs my mother laughingly bought me. Gel food tastes like heaven when you are out of water and energy.

Once in day two's destination city Manistee I ate dinner and asked a family near the train tracks if I could camp out in their yard. I took barely enough time to set up tent and write in my journal before passing out...

Northport, MI to Traverse City, MI - 38mi

The preparation for this trip has been both extensive and nearly nonexistant. I probably biked too little, packed too much, and was just the right amount excited:)

My first day I rode from my home in Northport, MI (set off by exit commitee Kristen and John) to Traverse City (via Leland... not exactly on the way). Right off the bat, my plans were changed from camping in Glen Arbor to staying with good friends Jenny and Ben in Traverse City. It made for a nice first day... a comfortable cruise down on the Tart Trail and a last goodbye view of the bay. Getting used to the weight of a fully loaded bike was tricky but a quick learning process.

CROSS COUNTRY BIKE TRIP

My adventuring after Florida moved considerably higher up the latitudes... I was home in northern Michigan for a few months working as a farmhand for the Nine Bean Rows/Blackstar Farms C.S.A. as well as in the tasting room at Tandem Ciders. Now however, I am out and away again...

I want to see more of this huge country I live in. I don't want to own or drive a car. I want the opportunity to meet people along the way and take my time. I love self-sufficiency. Best way to travel? By BICYCLE!! With the mental nudge from my sister, I have committed to buying a fantastic bike (Trek Pilot 2.1 WSD) and all the gear I need to live on it for a good while. My father has helped me casually route my way through the upper tier of the United States and with the help of a large selection of people (who will recieve shout-outs soon, I promise) I am now pedaling my way into this wide world. As much as I can I will keep this blog updated about crazy happenings, interesting people, woes and adventures; as well as information about routes I take and gear I decided on, etc.

Happy Cycling!